Saturday, September 10, 2016

They Say Beauty Is Pain, But Should It Really Bring You To Tears?

From drug store to high end: a few of my favorite masks

By now many of you have probably seen the video circulating the internet where the girl is screaming, cussing, and crying while trying to remove a face mask. It’s something anyone who has ever been waxed or tried a pore strip can relate to, but maintaining your skin is a lot easier when it doesn’t involve that level of discomfort! A face mask is one of the quickest ways to improve your skin at home, however as the video demonstrates, it’s important to choose the right mask for your skin type. From trendy Korean sheet masks to $60 jars of miracle treatments, trying to figure out which one to use can be a little overwhelming. Even the mask in the video can be helpful when used properly: only on clogged pores, after you exfoliate, and avoiding any areas with hair. You can also mix and match for combination skin types, for example a clay mask over an oily t-zone and a soothing gel mask over sensitized or dry, flaky areas. Thankfully, with all of these options it also means that there are plenty to choose from no matter your skin concern or budget!

As an esthetician and all-around skin care product junkie, I’ve been able to try all kinds of masks from high quality, professional-only treatments to dollar sheet masks found on the drug store beauty aisle. What it really comes down to is the ingredients. For most skin types I recommend masking no more than twice a week, especially with more exfoliating and clay masks. Otherwise it can sensitize your skin and cause irritation, which can also happen from leaving a mask on too long. So, be sure to always follow the label instructions and try not to get too sucked into Netflix while your mask is drying! Whether you can invest a chunk of your hard-earned cash or you just want to see what you can make from your pantry, here are a few of my favorite masks…

Single use masks at my local Target...so many options!


Oily Skin-

The most common masks (or at least the first that comes to mind) are the clay-based. They are typically green, known for drawing out impurities, and are usually reserved for oily and acne-prone skin. A combination of clays (kaolin, bentonite, and even sea silt) helps draw out excess oil while acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid or sulfur help to clear blemishes. On the down side, they can trigger a breakout before your skin gets better, so it's not always a quick fix. These masks can also be a bit too dehydrating on some sensitive skin types. However, if your skin is oilier and you have blackheads, just apply where you need it- it doesn't have to be all over the face.

$$$- Glam Glow Supermud Clearing Treatment- Great for oil control and acne; this cult favorite lightens in color as it dries and darkens as it absorbs excess oil, so you can really see it working. The $69 price tag means it also includes AHAs and BHAs, naturally derived chemical exfoliants which help improve skin texture, along with purifying eucalyptus and charcoal. You can find it here: http://www.sephora.com/super-mud-clearing-treatment-P376409?skuId=1473735&icid2=products%20grid:p376409

$- Boots Botanics Ionic Shine Away Clay Mask- A less expensive alternative to Supermud with naturally derived salicylic acid from willow bark and an incredibly short ingredient list. It has the same oil absorbing and acne-fighting properties at a fraction of the cost, (plus it changes colors just like it!). You can pick it up here, for under $10: http://www.target.com/p/boots-botanics-ionic-clay-mask-with-willowbark-3-3-oz/-/A-11202939


Acne-Prone Skin-

For more wide-spread or cystic acne (like the big ones that form under the skin), I recommend a more concentrated mask, preferably one that is dual purpose to clear the skin faster. When I have a lot of active breakouts it’s hard to leave my skin alone to let it heal, I just want them gone! So, to stop myself from causing more damage, I reach for a clay-based mask with strong acne-fighting ingredients that I can see and feel working. 

$$($)- Murad Acne Complex Clarifying Mask- I like to think of this one as the old stand-by, I’ve been using it for years, but really learned to appreciate it in esthetician school where we used it as our go-to for acne-prone skin. It has salicylic acid and sulfur to fight acne-causing bacteria and exfoliate deeper blemishes (you’ll smell the sulfur but don’t let that scare you off). It’s super thick and a little goes a long way; you can also apply it as a spot treatment and leave it on overnight to speed up the healing process as it helps bring down swelling and redness. It is not in the drug-store price range, but if you have persistent acne, it’s worth investing the $38; you can find it here: http://www.ulta.com/acne-complex-clarifying-mask?productId=prod2082346

$- Neutrogena Clear Pore Cleanser/Mask- Can’t do salicylic acid? It’s actually a more common sensitivity than you think, anyone allergic to aspirin or pregnant should steer clear and instead reach for benzoyl peroxide, which is just as effective. I discovered this one through my college roommate and was pleasantly surprised with the results and the price ($5.99!). You can use it as a daily cleanser or leave it on a little longer and it becomes a clay mask. Use it in the shower for best results and the steam will keep it from over-drying your face until you’re ready to rinse it off. Find it here: http://www.target.com/p/neutrogena-clear-pore-cleanser-mask/-/A-13337863


Dry Skin-

Is your skin dry? Rough? Flaky? Then you need enzymes! I can’t say enough about these unsung heroes of the skin care world. They eat dull, dead skin cells and leave the healthy ones, revealing softer, brighter, smoother skin without any harsh scrubbing. Enzyme masks or peels are a great option for your weekly exfoliation, and an alternative to abrasive bead exfoliants for sensitive, dry, or broken out skin.

$$$- Elemis Papaya Peel*- This is a UK brand I’ve gotten to know through work, and every time I use it in the treatment room my hands feel softer instead of dried out after a day of giving facials (I also use it on my face at home too!). The natural enzymes gives it a nice tingling sensation as it works, plus it smells amazing! You can find it in spas or here for about $45: http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/elemis-papaya-enzyme-peel/2889487?origin=category-personalizedsort

$- Alba Botanica Hawaiian Papaya Enzyme Facial Mask- Another dupe! This is one of the truly great drug-store (read: affordable) natural skin care lines; I was so excited when I found this and saw how well it compares to the ingredients in the Elemis one. There’s no synthetic fragrance and it smells just as good, it is also paraben and sulfate free, 100% vegetarian, and hypoallergenic! You can pick it up here for about $10: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hawaiian-Papaya-Enzyme-Facial-Mask-Alba-Botanica-3-oz-Liquid/31635804


Dehydrated Skin-

As I’ve mentioned before, any skin type can suffer from dehydration (yes, even if your skin is oily!), a soothing cream or gel-based mask can be just the thing to balance out your skin, so it is a relatively easy fix. Anyone with mature skin can also benefit from some added hydration, as the moisture barrier in your skin breaks down over time. Look for hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid (which can hold 1000 times its weight in water) and soothing glycerin to lock in moisture. Most of the fun Korean sheet masks are great for added hydration, as the sheet provides a physical barrier to help the ingredients penetrate and prevents them from evaporating. They are also great against cold dry air in late fall and winter, or while traveling long distances. Sadly, not all of us are brave enough to wear sheet masks on planes or during long car rides, despite the added benefit of startling unsuspecting on-lookers! You can always try a cream-based mask instead, which will go on clear and can stay on longer. As always, drinking plenty of water will really help product absorption and moisture retention. 

$$$- Yon-Ka No.1 Intense Hydration Masque*- This one is another go-to for me in the treatment room when I really want to add some deeper hydration, especially on mature skin types. It feels super fancy and the soothing cream formula penetrates deep to hydrate, smooth, and repair the skin. It is made with desert succulents which time release moisture so the longer you leave it on the more it works. It even doubles as a night cream for some intense hydration (we’re talking a 96% increase in hydration!). It runs about $59 and has to be purchased through a spa that uses Yon-Ka products in the treatment room, you can find your closest location here: http://www.yonkausa.com/find-an-authorized-yonka-center

($)- Homemade Hydrating Mask- As any self-respecting Pinterest-lover can tell you: you can take just about anything from your pantry and put it on your face as a mask! That said, I recommend you proceed with caution and stick with the more gentle ingredients. After some research and careful consideration, I have come up with a homemade hydration mask which can include various combinations of the following ingredients listed below. You’ll need a few minutes to prepare it, and make sure to wear something you don’t mind getting dirty. Here is my favorite recipe:

¼ cup of ground oatmeal, you can even use instant, as long as it’s plain with no additives - this helps soothe the skin and gently exfoliates
½ of one mashed avocado (maybe put the other half on toast?)- it is super moisturizing and also works well in hair masks!
2 tablespoons of honey - moisturizing, breaks apart excess sebum, and is anti-bacterial so it helps with acne
1 tablespoon of coconut oil - the natural/homemade standby, super moisturizing and holds the mask together
Mix everything together in a bowl until combined and apply to your face for about 10-15 minutes, rinse clean. (Note: it’s totally up to your preference, but I find that simple, organic ingredients are best for these type of masks, that way you know exactly what you’re putting on your face.)


Bonus!-

Finally, I have a few honorable mentions that are just good all-around masks, especially for blackheads or noticeable pores:

$- e.l.f Hydrating Bubble Mask- One of the newest trends with face masks is carbonation or bubbling to help loosen debris and cleanse pores. I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the quality from e.l.f. products time and again, and this mask is no exception. Apply it to clean, damp skin (it will start bubbling automatically), leave it on for 5-10 minutes until the bubbles dissipate, massage in the excess, and then rinse with warm water. For about $14 you can get fresh, clean, hydrated skin thanks to fun little bubbles that foam up to clear out your pores! I picked mine up at Target, but you can also find it here: http://www.elfcosmetics.com/p/hydrating-bubble-mask


$($)- Yes To Grapefruit Correct and Repair, Pore Minimizing Facial Mask- This is from another one of my favorite drugstore natural skin care lines, Yes To... It's a sheet mask that uses citrus to help brighten dark spots as well as Vitamin C to help fight free radicals and environmental damage. It also hydrates and softens the skin, while the more astringent citrus and witch hazel helps tone skin and tighten the appearance of pores. When it's time to remove, massage in the excess product and moisturize, no need to rinse. You can find it here for $16, 5 individual masks come in a box: http://www.target.com/p/yes-to-grapefruit-5-ct-mask-pore-minimizing-facial-mask-treatment/-/A-17043366

Basically any of the sheet masks from the Yes To… line are fun and full of beneficial, natural ingredients! 

*Note: For those of you on California's Central Coast (or plan on traveling in the area) and interested in trying the Elemis or Yon-Ka masks, feel free to contact me via email at: info@skinhelpspa.com. These masks are a little harder to get a hold of than the others listed above, so if you have the opportunity the best way to try them is in a facial. I use them both in the treatment room and they are available for sale through the spas I work at. So, if you’d like to get a feel for how the product does on your skin let me know and I can see about scheduling you for a facial. 



Have a product you are not sure about? Are you wondering whether or not to get a particular facial service? Or is there a specific skin care concern you'd like me to cover? Leave it in the comment section below or shoot me an email. I'd love to hear feedback and any suggestions for future post topics!