The Blacklist

Whenever I give a facial, I like to ask clients what they use at home, this not only gives me a better idea of what is going on with their skin naturally, but helps me identify what could be caused by their routine. I also ask how the products are working out for them, because as much as I might dislike a brand, if the client is happy with it, they're not likely to want to change it for something else. That said, here is my "Blacklist" of products I tell anyone and everyone to stop using: 

St. Ives Apricot Scrub- the rough edges of these natural fruit pits are way too abrasive for your face, especially if you have any kind of breakout or sensitivity. They can cause micro tears and there's even a lawsuit against it now! That said, if you just bought some you can still use it on rough or dry skin on the rest of your body like: elbows, feet, knees, or before shaving.

Clinique toners- these are marketed as "Clarifying Lotions", as if to say it will be more purifying than a traditional toner. I still can't understand why companies want to put in so much rubbing alcohol. This can be really drying and sensitizing to the skin. Other key ingredients include witch hazel, menthol, and sodium borate (aka. Borax) which are fine on their own, but together with alcohol they form an astringent combination. While this can help on some of the bacteria, mostly it will just dry your skin out and cause it to overproduce oil. For acne-prone and sensitive skin this can also make the healing process even more long and painful. Which is the last thing you want on red, irritated skin with painful angry bumps on it!

Cetaphil Cleanser- this one was actually recommended to me by dermatologists in the past, but I still find that it's too drying for most skin types. The foaming formula uses sulfates to dissolve oil and cleanse, but this in turn strips the skin. Again, this can lead to dehydration and an overproduction of oil, especially if you don't properly moisturize afterwards. A lot of face cleansers give you this tight, "squeaky clean" but your face is not meant to squeak!

Murad Dark Spot Remover/Any skin lighteners with Hydroquinone- this controversial ingredient can actually cause increased pigmentation and even hypopigmentation (white spots) on the skin. You have to be really careful how long you use it, and this makes it really damaging to skin long term. As with any other skin lightening agent, it will make you a lot more sensitive to the sun, so you have to be super diligent with the SPF, otherwise all those dark spots and more will just keep popping up.

These are my personal and professional opinions, but if you use any or all of these products and like the results, then more power to you. Just remember, at the end of the day, just like with diet, everything in moderation. I find more often than not, the people using these products still have problems skin and are struggling to find the culprit. So if you notice tight, red, or flaky skin right after your routine, take a closer look at the products you are using. Your skin should feel better, not worse, after you take care of it. When in doubt, go the sensitive route!

Check out my list of favorite acne-friendly products here at the end of the article,  http://skinhelpspa.blogspot.com/2016_06_01_archive.html