Lash Help Series: Keep It Clean

Lice in your lashes? It's more likely than you'd think!                

As part 2 of my special series on eyelash extensions, I wanted to delve deeper into a current issue that's come up about cleanliness. There's been some recent articles talking about the increased risk for lice in lashes, and what comes to a bit of a surprise to some of my clients is that it's not unheard of!

These are some lashes I removed from a client from another salon. There was no separation and just more and more glue and extension piled on each other which caused them to clump up and pull out her natural lashes when any needed to shed. She was unable to comb through and the build up from lack of cleansing just added to the mess!

Yes, it's incredibly rare for it to get that bad, and eyelash extensions can make your routine go much faster, they still require special maintenance. You don’t want end like one of those horror stories we see online who lost all their natural lashes or ended up with an eye infection either! So how do you avoid this? Beyond the basics of regular fills with a reputable lash technician who keeps your extensions looking full, anyone in the beauty and wellness industry will tell you it really comes down to homecare. Remember, you wouldn’t stop washing or detangling your hair if you got hair extensions or not wash your hands anymore because you got acrylics, eyelash extensions are no different. 

It can definitely take some getting used to, people often rely on mascara which keeps their lashes in place and is later washed off or don’t worry about their natural lashes at all if they never touch them. So, imagine you glued on strip lashes (aka falsies) and then never took them off. Strip lashes are not designed to stay on more than a few hours, the adhesive goes directly on the skin and isn’t strong enough to last much longer than that, but by applying individual extensions to your hairs with a super glue-like adhesive they are able to last the entire life cycle of the hair. This means that makeup, dead skin, and crustiness can build up along your lashes along with lint and even dust, especially when thick extensions clump up or tangle at the base of your lash line. Gross, right? 

So if you’re the type of person to sleep with your makeup on and make your mascara last a couple days per application, then eyelash extensions are going to be more work. 

What healthy eyelash extensions look like.

Beyond the first 24 hours that some lash adhesives require to be kept dry in order to cure, you need to be cleansing your lashes at least a few times a week. Many lash companies make their own extension-safe cleanser that your lash tech will probably recommend. Stay away from drying, exfoliating face washes or oil-based eye makeup removers which can break down the adhesive. However, if you’re on a budget regular Johnson & Johnson baby shampoo works great and won’t irritate your eyes.

To cleanse: gently rinse your extensions with cool water and foam up a small amount of cleanser and work in with your ring finger, which has the lightest touch, and rinse. You can also use lint-free microfiber Q-tips to work off any stubborn build up. Finally brush out your extensions with a clean spoolie brush. 

***Remember, it’s equally important to regularly brush your extensions to prevent twisting, tangling, and keep build-up from collecting.

Partial sets like this one can also add fullness and length without looking super patchy when they grow out.

Some people still avoid properly maintaining their lashes for fear that it will make them fall out faster. This is often the biggest concern for new lash clients, (and rightfully so, you just spent over $100 to have them attached in the first place!) but that should not stop you from keeping them clean. Don’t confuse fallout with regular lash shedding, which means your lashes will continue to naturally fall out with the extensions still attached and a new hair will soon take its place.

Regular fills will keep your lashes looking full, so unless you’re losing lots of extensions without the natural hair attached or if you’re experiencing discomfort and they are getting pulled out early with overzealous brushing, try not to worry too much when you lose a few. It’s better to lose a few more here and there with regular maintenance than have them all stuck together and unable to shed naturally which in turn leads to build up, pulling, and even gaps in natural lash growth. Plus it makes it a lot harder for your lash technician to perform fills if you come in with a tangled,dirty mess of extensions!

Remember, eyelashes are not much different than the hair on your head and with extensions they can twist and tangle just as easily, so treat your delicate eye area similarly, just with a more gentle touch. This does not mean you should blindly scrub them in the shower or rub them vigorously as you wash the rest of your face, instead just set aside a little extra time when you wake up in the morning, maybe after you brush your teeth and wash your face, to care for your extensions. Your lash technician and your lashes will thank you for it in the long run. 

Let’s face it, no one wants to be the poster child for lash lice!

Lash Help Series: Are Eyelash Extensions For Everyone?

While this has been and will continue to be a skin care blog, I wanted to expand to cover some other services that I've expanded into as an esthetician over the last few years. Eyelash extensions are a huge trend in the beauty industry right now and only getting bigger and more commonplace. What started out for me as a way to fill some time and learn another skill has quickly become one of the main parts of my business. There's hardly a day that goes by that I don't have a lash appointment on my books, and I've learned to love it almost as much as my passion for skincare. I thought I'd take this opportunity to share some of my knowledge in this new Lash Help Series I'm creating to answer FAQs and some questions people don't always think to ask before scheduling a lash appointment.

The difference even a natural set of eyelash extensions can make.

So without further ado, here is my list of top FAQs that you should know before getting eyelash extensions:

-What are they?
Synthetic eyelash hairs glued individually onto your natural eyelashes for longer, fuller looking lashes. They can be done with single individual hairs, clusters or custom fans of lashes, in a variety of lengths, thicknesses, and curliness, and are typically black. Eyelash extension are designed to take the place of false strip lashes and/or curling and applying mascara, and even the need for eyeliner. Great for low maintenance and glam-looks alike, whether you're going on vacation and want to streamline your routine or have a special event and want some added drama.

-What are "fills"?
Much like nail appointments, regular touch ups of "lash fills" are needed to keep them full and healthy. The lash technician should remove any twisted, grown out extensions and apply new ones to the new growth. Through normal wear and tear the extension may twist or loosen and will eventually fall out. Since the lashes are glued on individually to your natural lashes they will come off when they shed. You will probably lose some without the natural lash as well. Fills are recommended about every 2-4 weeks, depending upon the person. If you're gentle with them they can last longer, I've known some to stay on for months after all the others have fallen out! 

-Do I have to do anything to them at home?
Not much! Keep them free of tangles and buildup of any dead skin, makeup, or eye crustiness. Regular (gentle) brushing with a clean spoolie mascara wand and light cleansing at least a couple times a week (more if you're getting them dirty) will do the trick. You won't have to curl your lashes or wear mascara anymore! Actually, we recommend that you skip it entirely. Curling can break the bond made by the glue and most mascaras and eyeliners are too thick and can break down the adhesive when you try to remove it. If you must, wear something from a natural line without carbonates or oils and remove it with a gentle cleanser like Johnson & Johnson's baby shampoo or use a product from a company that makes eyelash extensions. (The same goes for eyeliner, waterproof liquid eyeliner is one of the toughest things to remove from your extensions!)

A couple before and afters on new clients of mine.

-Will they damage my lashes?
When done right and well maintained eyelash extensions will not damage your natural lashes. However, if they are too thick or heavy for your lashes or have clumped up with excess glue or build up, it can become an issue. A good lash technician will check for these signs during fills, and might recommend you come in sooner rather than later to keep them fresh and healthy. Separation is key, again make sure you are regularly keeping them clean by brushing them out and cleansing to remove any residue. This will also help them last longer.

-Do they have to look like caterpillars?
I get this a lot from first-timers, but it's important to have an idea of the look you're going for before your appointment- and what you don't want! Take a look at pictures of extensions your technician has done before or at others on Instagram to get a feel for what you like. They can be super full and dramatic like falsies or more natural and subtle. They can open up your eye in the middle or be flared out on the end in a cat eye. For the most part it's best to start subtle and work up from there, you can always add drama with a fill. Remember, they will get a little longer as they grow out.

Some recent lash work I did, some volume, some more subtle and natural.

-Can it make me look like a Kardashian?
It depends on your natural lashes and eye shape, so you have to be realistic. A good technician matches the extension to the natural lashes, making them longer and darker than what you've got. As much as you may want the longest, fullest lashes known to man, if you naturally have very thin, fine lashes that can hardly be seen with the naked eye, you're going to have a tough time maintaining it. Lashes that are too long or thick can weigh down your natural lashes and cause breakage, which means even shorter lashes! Also, it's common to have one eye with more lashes than the other, and extensions can emphasize this, so let your technician know of any areas you'd like to correct or balance out beforehand. 

-Anything else I shouldn't do?
Don't rub your eyes, spray them in the shower, and no crying-if you can help it. I've have clients lose all their lashes the next day because the water from their tears affected the adhesive, it's also nearly impossible to apply extension to someone with teary eyes. If you have allergies that often cause itchy, watery eyes then extensions might not be for you. Most adhesives require you to keep your lashes dry for the first 24 hours, others set with water, but any friction on the lashes will loosen them, causing them to fall out faster. (Which also relates to the no mascara rule above). Don't sleep on your face! In addition to friction, the pressure and movement from tossing and turning on your lashes can make them fall out faster, and if you sleep on your side you may notice that one eye loses them faster than the other. When in doubt switch to a silk or satin pillowcase or try a neck or lash pillow to keep the pressure off your face. It's a hard cycle to break, but sleeping on your back will also help prevent wrinkles too!

Who should not get eyelash extensions?

Anyone with extreme eyelash loss. I've had clients recovering from loss of eyelashes ask about extensions and I always tell them: whenever your lashes are growing back from any kind of trauma they may not come in consistently at first. Patchy lash growth can lead to patchy looking extensions since we need natural hairs to attach to, so again it can be worth waiting few weeks until there are fewer noticeable bald patches before trying extensions. Instead, try a lash serum or castor oil to grow them back first or reusable strip lashes in more subtle lengths or clusters might be a better option. 

   -Side note: You don't want to use lash serums while you have extensions on, as this can affect the adhesive. Instead, stick with a vitamin supplement for hair and nails to increase lash growth, but remember it can also increase the speed of your lash turnover which means they'll grow out and shed faster too.

Damaged eyelashes. A good technician can apply lasting lashes to even the thinnest, shortest lashes, but where it becomes an issue is when you have breakage. Whether it's from a bad set of extensions or poor lash health, stubby broken lashes should have time to bounce back before you go out and get a set of extensions. 

If you're like me! Yes, despite knowing all this and several trials as a lash model or guinea pig for my co-workers, I'm actually a terrible lash client. I have really bad seasonal allergies-regularly- and my eyes that water all the time, and if it's not from that, it's because I cry at everything including sweet dog commercials. I also am a side or stomach sleeper, and never have time to get in for fills because I'm always working so they usually just fall out and grow out. I wear a lot of eye makeup on a regular basis or at least liquid eyeliner, which is really hard not to get on your extensions. So I cake on the (waterproof) mascara and get to put extensions on everyone else for a living!

Her lashes were amazing to begin with so the extensions just enhanced it.

As always feel free to leave any questions you have for me! I plan on going more into depth on this in the coming posts which will hopefully be more frequent and less of an info dump followed by radio silence in the future!