Friday, November 22, 2019

Lash Help Series: Are Eyelash Extensions For Everyone?



While this has been and will continue to be a skin care blog, I wanted to expand to cover some other services that I've expanded into as an esthetician over the last few years. Eyelash extensions are a huge trend in the beauty industry right now and only getting bigger and more commonplace. What started out for me as a way to fill some time and learn another skill has quickly become one of the main parts of my business. There's hardly a day that goes by that I don't have a lash appointment on my books, and I've learned to love it almost as much as my passion for skincare. I thought I'd take this opportunity to share some of my knowledge in this new Lash Help Series I'm creating to answer FAQs and some questions people don't always think to ask before scheduling a lash appointment.

The difference even a natural set of eyelash extensions can make.

So without further ado, here is my list of top FAQs that you should know before getting eyelash extensions:

-What are they?
Synthetic eyelash hairs glued individually onto your natural eyelashes for longer, fuller looking lashes. They can be done with single individual hairs, clusters or custom fans of lashes, in a variety of lengths, thicknesses, and curliness, and are typically black. Eyelash extension are designed to take the place of false strip lashes and/or curling and applying mascara, and even the need for eyeliner. Great for low maintenance and glam-looks alike, whether you're going on vacation and want to streamline your routine or have a special event and want some added drama.

-What are "fills"?
Much like nail appointments, regular touch ups of "lash fills" are needed to keep them full and healthy. The lash technician should remove any twisted, grown out extensions and apply new ones to the new growth. Through normal wear and tear the extension may twist or loosen and will eventually fall out. Since the lashes are glued on individually to your natural lashes they will come off when they shed. You will probably lose some without the natural lash as well. Fills are recommended about every 2-4 weeks, depending upon the person. If you're gentle with them they can last longer, I've known some to stay on for months after all the others have fallen out! 

-Do I have to do anything to them at home?
Not much! Keep them free of tangles and buildup of any dead skin, makeup, or eye crustiness. Regular (gentle) brushing with a clean spoolie mascara wand and light cleansing at least a couple times a week (more if you're getting them dirty) will do the trick. You won't have to curl your lashes or wear mascara anymore! Actually, we recommend that you skip it entirely. Curling can break the bond made by the glue and most mascaras and eyeliners are too thick and can break down the adhesive when you try to remove it. If you must, wear something from a natural line without carbonates or oils and remove it with a gentle cleanser like Johnson & Johnson's baby shampoo or use a product from a company that makes eyelash extensions. (The same goes for eyeliner, waterproof liquid eyeliner is one of the toughest things to remove from your extensions!)

A couple before and afters on new clients of mine.
-Will they damage my lashes?
When done right and well maintained eyelash extensions will not damage your natural lashes. However, if they are too thick or heavy for your lashes or have clumped up with excess glue or build up, it can become an issue. A good lash technician will check for these signs during fills, and might recommend you come in sooner rather than later to keep them fresh and healthy. Separation is key, again make sure you are regularly keeping them clean by brushing them out and cleansing to remove any residue. This will also help them last longer.

-Do they have to look like caterpillars?
I get this a lot from first-timers, but it's important to have an idea of the look you're going for before your appointment- and what you don't want! Take a look at pictures of extensions your technician has done before or at others on Instagram to get a feel for what you like. They can be super full and dramatic like falsies or more natural and subtle. They can open up your eye in the middle or be flared out on the end in a cat eye. For the most part it's best to start subtle and work up from there, you can always add drama with a fill. Remember, they will get a little longer as they grow out.

Some recent lash work I did, some volume, some more subtle and natural.
-Can it make me look like a Kardashian?
It depends on your natural lashes and eye shape, so you have to be realistic. A good technician matches the extension to the natural lashes, making them longer and darker than what you've got. As much as you may want the longest, fullest lashes known to man, if you naturally have very thin, fine lashes that can hardly be seen with the naked eye, you're going to have a tough time maintaining it. Lashes that are too long or thick can weigh down your natural lashes and cause breakage, which means even shorter lashes! Also, it's common to have one eye with more lashes than the other, and extensions can emphasize this, so let your technician know of any areas you'd like to correct or balance out beforehand. 

-Anything else I shouldn't do?
Don't rub your eyes, spray them in the shower, and no crying-if you can help it. I've have clients lose all their lashes the next day because the water from their tears affected the adhesive, it's also nearly impossible to apply extension to someone with teary eyes. If you have allergies that often cause itchy, watery eyes then extensions might not be for you. Most adhesives require you to keep your lashes dry for the first 24 hours, others set with water, but any friction on the lashes will loosen them, causing them to fall out faster. (Which also relates to the no mascara rule above). Don't sleep on your face! In addition to friction, the pressure and movement from tossing and turning on your lashes can make them fall out faster, and if you sleep on your side you may notice that one eye loses them faster than the other. When in doubt switch to a silk or satin pillowcase or try a neck or lash pillow to keep the pressure off your face. It's a hard cycle to break, but sleeping on your back will also help prevent wrinkles too!


Who should not get eyelash extensions?

Anyone with extreme eyelash loss. I've had clients recovering from loss of eyelashes ask about extensions and I always tell them: whenever your lashes are growing back from any kind of trauma they may not come in consistently at first. Patchy lash growth can lead to patchy looking extensions since we need natural hairs to attach to, so again it can be worth waiting few weeks until there are fewer noticeable bald patches before trying extensions. Instead, try a lash serum or castor oil to grow them back first or reusable strip lashes in more subtle lengths or clusters might be a better option. 
   -Side note: You don't want to use lash serums while you have extensions on, as this can affect the adhesive. Instead, stick with a vitamin supplement for hair and nails to increase lash growth, but remember it can also increase the speed of your lash turnover which means they'll grow out and shed faster too.

Damaged eyelashes. A good technician can apply lasting lashes to even the thinnest, shortest lashes, but where it becomes an issue is when you have breakage. Whether it's from a bad set of extensions or poor lash health, stubby broken lashes should have time to bounce back before you go out and get a set of extensions. 

If you're like me! Yes, despite knowing all this and several trials as a lash model or guinea pig for my co-workers, I'm actually a terrible lash client. I have really bad seasonal allergies-regularly- and my eyes that water all the time, and if it's not from that, it's because I cry at everything including sweet dog commercials. I also am a side or stomach sleeper, and never have time to get in for fills because I'm always working so they usually just fall out and grow out. I wear a lot of eye makeup on a regular basis or at least liquid eyeliner, which is really hard not to get on your extensions. So I cake on the (waterproof) mascara and get to put extensions on everyone else for a living!


Her lashes were amazing to begin with so the extensions just enhanced it.

As always feel free to leave any questions you have for me! I plan on going more into depth on this in the coming posts which will hopefully be more frequent and less of an info dump followed by radio silence in the future!

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