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| Notice it says "toothpaste" not acne treatment! |
There are a lot if crazy beauty
and skincare myths out there, from using rubbing alcohol as a toner to
toothpaste as an acne spot treatment, and I’ve heard more my fair share as an
esthetician. A few years ago model, Suki Waterhouse shared the secret to
getting the perfect beachy waves in her hair: pouring Coca-Cola on it! While
the more far-fetched and outlandish tips aren’t often used, here are a few
common misconceptions that even some of the most dedicated skincare junkies
believe:
1.
If it hurts, it works! - You know that burning sensation you get with a
strong acne treatment or exfoliating mask? That’s not always a good thing. There
is a common misconception amongst people with troubled skin that you have to
feel a product “working”. In reality, redness, irritation, heat, or a burning
sensation is actually a negative reaction and your skin’s way of telling you
the product is too intense for you. In some extreme cases frosting can occur,
which where the skin starts to almost foam, this is also known as cell death! A
slight itchy or tingling sensation is normal with some stronger acids, however
anything that leaves your skin blotchy, red, and irritated isn’t doing you any
favors. Acids such as Glycolic, Lactic, and even Salicylic are common
exfoliants in promoting cell turnover and revealing brighter more even skin,
but can cause adverse effects in higher percentages. This does not mean these
products or ingredients cannot still be used in moderation, just as leaving a
mask or peel on too long can take it from effective to irritating. Overall, it’s
better to err on the side of caution and remember, red means stop when it comes
to skincare (it doesn’t just apply to road safety!).
2.
Oily skin doesn’t need moisture- This is one of my biggest pet peeves. Everyone’s
skin can get dehydrated, (it’s not just from not drinking enough water!) and
the first thing your skin does to fight dehydration is produce more oil. Most
skin care lines target oiliness with drying acne-fighting ingredients,
astringent alcohol-based toners, and mattifying products at every step. This
level oil-control is often what causes an increase in the skin's’ production of
oil as it tries to balance itself out. If you identify as an oily skin type,
ask yourself, does your skin feel dry or tight right after you wash your face
and super oily in the afternoon? Or do you find that your skin is
simultaneously oily and flaky? Congratulations! You are not a true oily skin
type, this condition is actually caused by products you are using on your skin.
So start hydrating! The best place to start is cutting out the mattifiers and limiting
that super foamy cleanser by switching to a gentler skincare line. Adding in
weekly hydrating masks and a cream or oil-based cleanser can also help balance
things out. True oily skin types can also benefit from this gentler approach,
an oil-based cleanser is a great addition to your routine, as oil attracts oil
and a thicker moisturizing night cream will help your skin balance itself and
restore moisture as you sleep. You can still use a lighter moisturizer during
the day, even something oil-free, just don’t load on the mattifying products,
instead try blotting sheets when you start to feel greasy. While there’s a
difference between a “healthy glow” and looking like a glazed donut, being able
to feel moisture in your skin is actually a good thing!
2.1 You need to
dry out your zits to clear them up-
As stated above, no matter your skin type don’t forget to hydrate! Believe it
or not, your skin will heal itself naturally, if more slowly than you would
prefer. By not moisturizing acne-prone skin you are just as likely to worsen
breakouts by overdoing it with too many drying ingredients like Salicylic Acid,
Benzoyl Peroxide, and Glycolic Acid- which all promote exfoliation and cell
turnover- but can lead to dry flakey patches on already irritated skin. It’s
all about balance, one spot treatment twice a day with your normal skincare
routine and the occasional clay mask is better than using an entire line of
acne-fighting skin care that doesn’t properly hydrate or moisturize. When your skin is getting inundated with drying,
exfoliating, and purifying ingredients at every step, it’s no wonder your skin
is simultaneously dry, flaky, oily, and broken-out! Give your skin a break to
bring down the redness and help your skin heal itself. Look for ingredients
like: cucumber, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, green tea, and jojoba oil which
hydrate and calm without being too rich. This will also help you maintain a
balanced moisture barrier instead of
stripping it, which causes more oil production, and on acne-prone skin that
means more breakouts!
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| This is what over-doing it looks like for oily/acne-prone skin: everything is targeting the same issues and nothing is adding moisture back in. |
3.
Scrubbing=Exfoliating- In some cases a gentle scrub used in the shower is
great for promoting cell turnover (see the Simple exfoliating scrub or Yon-Ka’s Guarana
Scrub), unfortunately, more often than not they are used too often or are too
harsh for most skin types. Some “facial” scrubs cause micro-tears, broken
capillaries, and can even spread active breakouts (I’m looking at you St. Ive’s
Apricot Scrub!). Instead try an enzyme based peel once a week or go the
European route with a gommage which peels off dead skin cells like pills on a
sweater and is gentle enough to be used daily. Also, if you are using a
moisturizer or serum with exfoliating ingredients (such retinols, glycolic
acid, lactic acid, papaya or other fruit enzymes) you do not need to exfoliate
as often, so unless you are seeing lots of flakiness or peeling limit your
exfoliating scrubs and masks to once a week. You can save the harsher scrubs
for rough elbows, knees, and feet or to exfoliate before you shave to help
prevent ingrown hairs and remove stubborn deodorant buildup in your underarms.
4.
You breakout because your skin is “dirty”- There are many contributing factors that can lead to
breakouts in even the healthiest skin: hormonal shifts, excess oil production,
not enough exfoliating, diet, stress, environmental factors like pollution,
allergies or an allergic reaction, and yes clogged pores from not washing off
makeup, dirt, and oil. You can experience a combination of these factors at
once and they may change over time as your skin fluctuates and different elements
come into play. Most teenagers breakout due to hormonal shifts caused by
puberty which leads to an increase in oil production and cell turnover, as well
as stress. These breakouts often persist due to lack of proper cleansing,
exfoliation, and skin picking. Meanwhile, a woman in her 30s who perhaps just
took a new job in a busy city might suddenly breakout due to environmental
factors like pollution, stress, and diet. Menopause is another common hormonal
culprit and can often lead to a change in skin type, such as oily to dry which
makes balancing skin even more difficult. So while it’s important to wash your
face twice a day with a gentle cleanser, regardless of your skin type, sometimes
breakouts happen and you shouldn’t feel like it’s your fault. So next time you
look in the mirror only to find what looks like Mt. Vesuvius cropping up on
your face, remember all the possible culprits and take a gentler approach to clearing
it up.
5.
Dark spots can disappear instantly/never will- For most people jury is out when it comes to clearing
up hyperpigmentation and you probably fall into one of two camps. The first believe
that they can instantly vanish away a troublesome age spot or post-acne scars
with the right miracle cream or intensive facial peel. The other, more discouraged,
group has usually tried a few options and now believes nothing can clear their
dark spots and it’s pointless to try. In reality, hyperpigmentation can be
lightened but not always completely cleared. That said, lightening agents and exfoliation
can clear hyperpigmentation up or at least lighten older scars down to the
layers where to melanin was triggered. More intensive peels which require
downtime can remove several layers of the skin to reveal undamaged skin, just
as stronger lightening agents like the controversial Hydroquinone can bleach
the skin down to these levels. However, because this pigmentation is triggered
by sun exposure you can still experience more scarring during the recovery time
by not taking proper sun protection precautions or over-using strong bleaching
agents. So what can you do? Start small, an exfoliating facial with a low-level
lightening peel and/or microdermabrasion is a good way to see how deep the
pigmentation goes. Next you can add a gentle lightening spot treatment to your regimen
with ingredients like: Vitamin C (usually found in citrus), brown and red algae
extract, daisy extract, licorice extract, mulberry, peony, retinol, or kojic
acid. Some skincare companies have full lines devoted to dark spot removal,
just remember to keep the more concentrated serums only on the hyperpigmentation,
it doesn’t do any good to lighten the surrounding skin as well. Lastly, don’t
forget the SPF! Most sunscreens are only active for about 2 hours in direct
exposure, so you need to reapply, especially if you are working outside and remember you are
still being exposed to UV rays in your car or on foggy days!
My Favorite Skincare Advice-
Now that I’ve covered what
not to believe, here are a few of my favorite tips and tricks for better skin:
-Skincare doesn’t need to be
expensive. A pretty package usually sells well, but it’s the ingredients that
make the product. As seen in my last post, you can often find cheaper
alternatives to pricier cult-favorites just by checking the labels or even
looking into store brands. While sourcing ingredients and concentration is
important, there are more and more affordable skincare lines available today
that work just as well and in some cases better than the more expensive
department store lines, (many lines are even owned by the same parent company).
As I learned in marketing class, the store brand alternatives to big name top
sellers not only contain the same main ingredients but are often manufactured
in the same facilities.
-Do you notice shine
throughout the day, but don’t have any blotting sheets with you? Clean brown
paper napkins, disposable toilet seat covers, and even a tissue pulled apart
into two separate layers can all work as blotting papers in a pinch. Just dab
your face as you normally would, focusing on oilier t-zones and cheeks.
-Sadly, cosmetics and skincare products don’t last forever, but it’s good to change things up every once in awhile. Take a look at the expiration dates or symbols on your products; check the back of the packaging for a little picture of a jar with a number and “M” inside for months, this starts from the date opened. If it’s past this point, the potency is decreased and it can stop being effective. Anything not stored in an airtight container will not only age faster, but harbors bacteria, especially if you scoop it out with your fingers, (which can means an acne-fighting moisturizer can even cause breakouts if it’s old). Ever notice your favorite night cream go from liquid gold to just ‘meh’ after a couple jars? Your skin will becomes used to and even resistant to active ingredients over time, which causes your results to plateau. Ideally, you should try to switch up your one product every six months, or after a full jar is used. For example, if you’re worried about fine lines and age spots, focusing on one concern at a time will not only clear up things faster but will promote consistent results. This is not to say you need to completely revamp your skincare routine twice a year, but if you’re noticing less dramatic results, try switching up one or two products, or just wait until you run out.
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| The "6M" in the container means I have 6 months from opening to use this cleanser. |
-As (American) consumers we
are preconditioned to expect soap to foam (due to sulfates) - which gives the
impression that cleansers don’t work otherwise, this is not the case. That squeaky
clean feeling you get from some cleansers is because all of the oils (even the
good ones) have been stripped from your skin. Remember, your face shouldn’t feel
tight and dry after washing. Fortunately, the recent boom in cleansing oils is
helping to change that perception. These, along with gentle milky cleansers are
great for all skin types, it just takes some getting used to. The best way to
use them is with the double cleansing method, especially if you wear foundation
and have oilier skin. Start by applying them dry to absorb excess oil and add
water to emulsify into a milky texture after you’ve worked it in (just like
with shampoo) rinse and repeat. Or if you need to ease into it or struggle with
clogged pores, try using a gentle foaming cleanser second for a deeper clean
while still getting used to the feel of more hydration in your skin.
-If you feel a painful zit
coming on you can bring down the redness and swelling with an ice cube for a
few minutes and a drop of tea tree essential oil which also has purifying
properties. Just remember to keep essential oils away from the eye area. This,
along with your regular cleansing routine and a spot treatment can help speed
up the recovery time, and in some cases clear the zit before it even come to
the surface.
-Remember, your true age shows
on your hands, neck, and décolleté. All the best skin care in world can keep
your face healthy and young-looking, but don’t forget these crucial areas.
While the skin on your face is the most sensitive, your décolleté is often
exposed to just as much sun damage which causes the skin to age faster. That
said, you don’t always need separate products for these areas, just bring your
face moisturizers and SPF down further and rub any excess product into your
hands.
As always, feel free to leave
any questions or skincare concerns in the comment section below. I’m going to
try to post more often during the holidays,
so let me know any other topics you would like to see covered as well.
