When It Boils Down To It, Do You Know What Facial Is Right For You?

A boiling, steamy pot of water is great for opening your pores, but not technically considered a "facial".

Ever put your face over a steaming pot of boiling water and say you're getting a "facial"? Or maybe you have tried a sheet mask at home and after scarring the crap out of the next person to walk into the room you just say, "I'm giving myself a facial!" It's a common enough occurrence and not something I really thought about until I started studying to become an esthetician. However, I would like to take this time to explain what a facial really is and why choosing the right one is so important. A facial is a targeted, often personalized, skin care treatment that typically involves cleansing, exfoliating, toning, masks, and massage. It can also include the extraction of blackheads, targeted treatments such as peels or deep exfoliation, or even electrical modalities such as the high frequency Tesla ray to oxidize bacteria in acne-prone skin. Facials can vary in price from $30 for a basic facial at a beauty school to well over $100 in some luxury spas.

While it's true many people who get regular facials have aging skin do so to pamper themselves and "turn back time", others receive frequent treatments to fight a specific skin issue, such as persistent acne. But these clients aren't the only ones who can benefit from facials, that's the beauty of personalized treatments. The right facial (and esthetician) can help solve a multitude problems, and be a relaxing treatment. However, getting the wrong facial for your skin type can cause even more skin issues as well as money down the drain. What it really comes down to is communication. 

Some of the most common questions I get as an esthetician are: "How do I know what I should be using on my face?" and "What kind of facial should I get?" Determining your skin type is the best way to decide what type of facial is right for you. Whether you need weekly treatments to target a specific concern or monthly services to maintain skin health ultimately depends upon you. For example, I might receive a new client who wants to clear up some hyper-pigmentation (like age spots), this will most likely take a series of treatments to exfoliate away the damaged skin. Similarly, a client experiencing persistent acne would need a few targeted treatments to bring up the debris clogging their pores. This also allows the skin to heal itself between treatments as new layers of skin come to the surface. Meanwhile, a client with very dry skin or rosacea would need a more hydrating, gentle facial to help lock in moisture and boost the water and oil production in their skin. You can imagine how counter-productive it would be if one of these clients got the wrong service!

So how do you determine your skin type? Follow the brief questionnaire below to find out where you stand:

1.  After a shower or directly after washing my face, my skin feels___________.

a.      Slightly tight- it’s time to moisturize!

b.      Tight and dry- I can see flakes forming right away

c.      Good, no complaints here

d.      Fine at first, but oily within the next hour or so

2.   If I wear foundation, I have to touch it up___________.

a.      About 4 hours later (lunch break)

b.      Depending on the formula, I like to spritz with a hydrating mist to refresh every couple hours

c.      Never/maybe once if I’m going out after work

d.      Every 2 hours with powder or blotting sheets

3.   When I wake up on a typical morning, my face feels___________.

a.      Okay, maybe a little greasy

b.      Dry- like I need more beauty sleep!

c.      IDK, fine I guess, I just have to pee!!!

d.      Oily! Especially in my T-zone (forehead and around my nose)

If you answered mostly…

A's- Combination skin. This is the most common skin type. You might be dry in some places and oilier in others with the occasional breakout or flakiness. It’s all about balance, look for products that are non-comedogenic to prevent breakouts and gentle ones formulated without heavy fragrances which can irritate the skin. If you are dealing with a breakout or flakiness, focus your treatment gels or serums only on the specific area where you need it. You can also use multiple masks at once, for example try a clay mask on an oily T-zone and a more hydrating gel-based mask on dry areas. Look for a facial that exfoliates and hydrates, most estheticians will tailor the facial to your specific skin type so be sure to mention that you have multiple concerns. (This will also be your type if you didn’t have a clear majority in any of the other letters.)

B's- Dry skin. Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate! Oils like jojoba or coconut make great moisturizers. Jojoba is similar to the natural oil in your skin (know as sebum) so it absorbs really well, while coconut helps build up the moisture barrier with its thicker consistency and is a natural SPF 10. Don’t be afraid to exfoliate to get rid of the dead skin cells that are flaking off. Look for enzyme-based exfoliants which are gentler with ingredients like pumpkin, papaya, or Greek yogurt. The enzymes eat away the dead skin cells to reveal softer, clearer skin. Physical or “bead” exfoliants will just keep you peeling. Also be sure you are drinking plenty of water to keep your skin moisturized from the inside out! Your facials should focus on hydrating, and again the exfoliation should be enzyme-based for brightening and cell turnover.

C's- Normal skin. This is actually the rarest skin type, not overly oily or dry. Lucky you! Keep up the balance with a simple 3-step routine (cleanse, tone, and moisturize) and don’t forget the SPF! You can't go wrong with a relaxing, hydrating facial. Bring on the massage! Depending on any other skin issues, an anti-aging, lifting treatment could also be beneficial.

D's- Oily skin. Welcome to the club! If you’re like me you might have to carry around various oil-control solutions with you on a daily basis: translucent powder, blotting sheets, mattifying sprays… the list goes on! This skin type tends to be more acne-prone, especially around the nose and chin areas. If you wear makeup, try an oil-based cleanser first to remove it, this goes on dry and attracts the excess oil, then use a foaming cleanser to wash your face. Don’t forget to moisturize, it’s tempting to skip this step, but doing so can lead to even more oil production as your skin overcompensates to hydrate itself. Look for non-comedogenic products to help prevent breakouts and try a weekly clay-based mask to balance your skin. Purifying facials are best, (again) with clay-based masks and less facial massage, which can overstimulate oil production and be counter-productive against breakouts. 

A few of my favorite moisturizers that can be used for various skin types.

While these are just the main skin types you can also have additional skin conditions. For example, dehydrated skin feels tired, dull, and doesn’t bounce back when you pinch it, and can affect all skin types. Acne, rosacea, eczema, and aging skin are a few of the most common skin conditions you may be facing. While these conditions can feel like your top priority, your skin type will usually be the chief deciding factor in what products you should use. Meanwhile, facial treatments and most of your serums will depend upon any additional conditions. Before you begin any facial services, be sure to discuss your skin type and concerns with the esthetician. Also use this time to cover any goals you have for your skin (such as brightening hyper-pigmentation or clearing up breakouts) so you can work together and create a plan. This will not only help you get the most out of the treatment, but will aid the esthetician in determining what products to suggest for home-care.  

As always, no matter your skin type, the right home-care routine makes all the difference. I once did a series of facials on a girl with combination, acne-prone skin and after four specialized, targeted treatments, I found out she was barely even washing her face! All the facials in the world will not help if you don’t work to maintain the results at home. So, whether it's following a fully planned out regimen from your esthetician or a simple 3-step routine on your own, find out what works for you and your skin!